Timing belt replacement DIY Question

jesssssser

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Location
Buffalo
TDI
2010 Jetta Sportwagen ~118K
My 'wifes' '10 jsw 6mt tdi just passed 100k. In the spring I'm planning on replacing the timing belt.

I've already purchased a replacement kit, including the water pump and metal nrd tools.

Can anyone reccomend a good DIY guide? Also are there any specific non typical tools I should have on hand?

Any other service I should do while getting the timing belt done??

Thanks!
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
The procedure is not that hard. You will need a lock device for the crankshaft, pin for the cam etc.

Such as this one from ID parts: https://www.idparts.com/metalnerd-timing-belt-tools-cbeacjaackra-p-2748.html

(Available in other places as well - I have no affiliation, but have had no issues with items bought at IDparts before.

Guide here, but MyTurboDiesel has recently started charging a modest amount for the full guide: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/cbea-cjaa-vw-jetta-golf-jsw-tdi-timing-belt-removal-part-1/
 

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
It's a weekend job, not that hard but some spots are a tight fit even for medium sized hands.

Follow the dieselgeek pro tip for the water pump and don't remove the engine mount. Helps to have an offset box wrench for that as you won't be able to get a ratchet (or tq wrench for that matter) into the space.

One thing that caught me up was my allen wrench was too long for the space when adjusting the TB tensioner, so I had to cut it down with a grinder.

The other thing that threw me for a loop was the final verification process where you rotate the crank 2x by hand and reset the crank and cam pins to confirm timing. I was setting the crank tool first (as per the DIY guide/video), then trying to fit the cam pin but it was a fraction of a mm off... finally figured out that I could rotate to TDC and insert the cam/HPFP pins and then the crank pin afterwards.

Aside from that you can follow the DIY linked above or just watch the video if you don't want to pay for the 3rd page of the DIY. I like having a paper copy on hand so I can check things off as I go along, keeps my scatterbrain in order.

Any questions, feel free to ask.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The belt is not due until 120k miles, just FYI.

It is not that difficult, really. Couple hours or so. Worst part to me is digging the auxiliary fuel pump and associated hoses all out of the way. I flip the pump and filter all up and over near the hood hinge and tie it up out of the way, I just remove the two fuel lines at the pump/rail area, right above the timing belt cover.

Once that is all out of the way, the rest of it is not bad at all. I take the mount out, and that is easy since on the A5s there is lots of room and there is an access hole in the inner fender to get at the rearmost bolt. I take the oil pan cozy off, as when you take the water pump loose coolant likes to run down into it and then the car smells like it has a coolant leak for a long time.

Just make sure to pin the HPFP first, as that seems to be the most difficult one to see. Then I do the cam and crank. Normally so long as the engine is not too hot nor too cold, the pins will all slide right in, but sometimes you have to wiggle the engine back and forth a wee bit to get them in.
 

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
IME no need to remove the motor mount nor the fuel hoses. But that's my two cents, everyone has a preferred method.

Agreed on the oil pan cozy, I neglected to do so and immediately regretted it when I removed the WP haha.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
IME no need to remove the motor mount nor the fuel hoses. But that's my two cents, everyone has a preferred method.
Agreed on the oil pan cozy, I neglected to do so and immediately regretted it when I removed the WP haha.

You also said it is a weekend job. ;) Maybe if you took more stuff off, you could get it done faster? Just sayin'. I've probably done 100 of them, though, and thousands of timing belts in general, so it isn't that big of a deal for me.
 

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
It was my second TB job :) First was on a 20v I5, on an engine stand... years ago.

I took my time and had a few oat sodas along the way, took pics and enjoyed the first snowstorm of the year in my unheated/insulated/lit/open air garage with a dirt floor.
 

Ol'Rattler

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
PNA
TDI
2006 BRM Jetta
I was setting the crank tool first (as per the DIY guide/video), then trying to fit the cam pin but it was a fraction of a mm off... finally figured out that I could rotate to TDC and insert the cam/HPFP pins and then the crank pin afterwards.
The methodology I use. Might seem a little anal, but the result are extremely accurate and repeatable. You will notice that Bentley's doesn't even require a Torsion check/adjust because if you follow the intent of the procedure, there is no valid reason to adjust Torsion.

For your final check, what you do is turn the engine in the direction of engine rotation from the crank the 2 turns and pin the crank so the indexing pin is a slip fit. Check/adjust tension at this time if it is off. Verify the crank pin is still a slip fit and then adjust the cam and HPFP positions until the cam and HPFP tools are a slip fit.

After the final adjustment always do the check one last time. If the crank tool is a slip fit, the tension is correct and HPFP and the cam tools are a slip fit your timing is golden.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
While you are at it, take a close look at the coolant. if it is not pink/purple clean, might think about changing it.

you can google up what fresh coolant looks like. use the proper VW coolant.

you need a 12 pt socket to rotate the engine, and triple square tools, which may or may not already be in your toolbox.
 
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greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Guide here, but MyTurboDiesel has recently started charging a modest amount for the full guide: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/cbea-cjaa-vw-jetta-golf-jsw-tdi-timing-belt-removal-part-1/
Why are we linking to external sites when one exists on tdiclub?

A member here (GreenGeeker) wrote an excellent step by step procedure for replacing the timing belt of a CR engine. Look here: (click on "multimedia" to see the pdf.)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=342197

Have Fun!

Don
Thanks for sharing Don. :)
 

JSWTDI09

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
TDI
2009 JSW TDI (gone but not forgotten)
Because Fred's and MTD are pretty much joined at the hip. There are a ton of folks that post in both forums.
...and even more that read both. Also add to this the fact that the two procedures are not word for word identical. There may be tricks or hints in one that is not in the other. There is nothing wrong with reading 2 people's write ups of the same basic procedure and taking the best of both. I would read both procedures before starting and then follow the one that seems to make more sense to you (remembering any hints that might be in the the other one).

Have Fun!

Don
 
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Henrick

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Location
Ireland
TDI
Golf VI TDI, 77 kW (CAYC)
I'd suggest adding a thermostat to your kit if it doesn't contain one. It is an inexpensive part and takes additional 5-10 minutes to do while you are there. Thermostats also age and degrade with time and heat cycles.
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
...and even more that read both. Also add to this the fact that the two procedures are not word for word identical. There may be tricks or hints in one that is not in the other. There is nothing wrong with reading 2 people's write ups of the same basic procedure and taking the best of both. I would read both procedures before starting and then follow the one that seems to make more sense to you (remembering any hints that might be in the the other one).

Have Fun!

Don
Absolutely. I printed out copies of both greengeeker's and myturbodiesel's timing belt service write-up. I also watched some video. Altogether, it made my first tdi timing belt job a walk in the park.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
I'd suggest adding a thermostat to your kit if it doesn't contain one. It is an inexpensive part and takes additional 5-10 minutes to do while you are there. Thermostats also age and degrade with time and heat cycles.
not so much on this car.

(cost or time)
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I'd suggest adding a thermostat to your kit if it doesn't contain one. It is an inexpensive part and takes additional 5-10 minutes to do while you are there. Thermostats also age and degrade with time and heat cycles.
This is not true. Not even close.
 

jesssssser

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Location
Buffalo
TDI
2010 Jetta Sportwagen ~118K
Hopefully Santa is bringing me a set or triple squares for Xmas. I learned about those SOBs while replacing my rear rotors and pads. I believe I shreaded 2 1/4" drives then stripped the bolts, trying to remove the driver's side caliper.

Sounds like all I need is to budget 1.5 days sometime in the spring.

Thanks for the advice all!
 

Henrick

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Location
Ireland
TDI
Golf VI TDI, 77 kW (CAYC)
This is not true. Not even close.
Oh, I guess that engine has got the "famous flange style t-stat":
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4031831&postcount=7

Yeah, that's a pain...

Not sure how on your side of the pond but here these cost ~$40-$50. Not VW/OEM but a quality replacement from BEHR or Wahler (which I believe are OE suppliers to VW anyway).

Not going to argue with anyone regarding labour time but I agree this will take way more than 5-10 minutes to do. However, if this would be my car which is due for TB service, I'd probably strongly consider doing that while the car has got belts removed and coolant drained
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I skipped the t-stat when I did my timing belt. I'll do it on the next tb job (hopefully not sooner).
 

Henrick

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Location
Ireland
TDI
Golf VI TDI, 77 kW (CAYC)
Me too.
What exactly is the thermostat service interval, anyways?
I'd say, YMMW.

I suspect that the lifespan of t-stat depends on count of heat cycles.
I do a lot of short tripping, frequent starts and stops. My T-stat at 73k miles is weak. I can't reach coolant temperatures over 83-84 *C no matter what I do.
Meanwhile, a buddy of mine in Germany, who drives mainly on highways and has got twice the mileage on the same engine, has got still factory t-stat and it steadily holds 92-93 *C (the t-stat is rated for 92 *C) even at idle and in city driving.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The ECU monitors warm up times, so if your thermostat gets really bad, ESPECIALLY on the CR engines, you'll know, because you'll have a nice MIL staring you in the face. However, they do progressively get weaker before they get to that point. However the CR engines (at least the versions sold here) are very sensitive to engine temps. I have only ever had to replace one. And that car had over 1/4 million miles on it, and was flagging the 'mapped cooling system' DTC.
 

Henrick

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Location
Ireland
TDI
Golf VI TDI, 77 kW (CAYC)
The DTC/MIL must be US-only tune thing, probably due to tighter emissions regulations.

In September I have seen a Passat B6 w/2.0 TDI-CR engine (yeah, I know you didn't have such car with CR engines there but Europe had), it was very similar to early CBEAs you had. In fact, the t-stat was completely stuck open. Never got a CEL or any DTC!
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Even the ALHs here will flag coolant temp too low. We also have an aggressive after glow period as well. Lots of stuff here is different. We had OBD2 in 1997 diesels, you guys had EOBD through 2003 (some of our cars even have the spot in the center for the DLC for that).
 

tdicamden

New member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Location
Camden, Maine
TDI
2009 Sportwagen 6 spd Manual
Thanks everyone, excellent tips. I followed all your recommendations, even cranking the engine a second 2 cycles to triple check timing. 2009 TDI started immediately after reassembling. Test drove around the block, ran great. Drove 40 miles to a business meeting getting 45 mpg and engine would not start for 4 hours after stopping. Had to completely cool down. What gives? Was able to drive home the 40 miles then car would not start again - for 4 hours. The engine cranks and tries to start immediately but shuts down, like the onboard systems are saying - "No, not a good start." I checked for errors and got the following error messages which read to me like a timing issue. But I just can't believe with the engine running so smoothly (when it starts) that it is. Prior to my belt replacement there were no starting issues, so it must be related. Before I disassemble, I thought I'd ask this experienced group for guidance. Thanks!


2 Faults Found:
009298 - Diesel Particle Filter; Differential Pressure Sensor
P2452 - 000 - Elect. Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 188941 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Mileage: 210 km
Pressure: 0 mbar
Pressure: -3 mbar
(no units): 0.0
Temperature: 23.4°C

000022 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0016 - 000 - Incorrect Correlation
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 188944 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 10:15:24

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1104 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 11.40 V
Temperature: 45.0°C
Idle Stabilization: -2.7°KW
RPM: 524 /min
(no units): 33.0
 
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