Parked car overnight. Won’t start today

Hi,

Thanks for your help in advance. I’ve read lots of threads and have hope but haven’t solved the problem yet. Any help is appreciated

Quick rundown:
1. Passat 2005 Wagon
2. Car ran great
3. Parked overnight and now won’t start
4. Cranks strong
5. Checked fuel filter and diesel flows out of filter on turning ignition
6. Glow plug light is working on dash
7. A few error codes from VAG
7.a - p3103 Motor for intake manifold flap - malfunction intermittent - this has been going on for a long time and I’ve just ignored it
7.b - p0113 Intake Air Sensor - Signal too high - intermittent -
7.c - p1592 Altitude Sensor / Boost pressure sensor - Implausible correlation
7.d - p0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Signal too low
7.e - p0407 EGR sensor 2 - Signal too low

Check that the intake flap is open.

you lost fuel pressure in the rail, crank 5 seconds, rest 5 seconds, repeat this process till it starts

Scubanero said:

Check that the intake flap is open.

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Ditto.

If that's open, unplug the MAF sensor for giggles and see if it starts. Probably won't do a thing, but if it DOES start, you know the MAF sensor is bad.

You might have issues with one of the following:
1) Tandem pump
2) Injector seals

Is the nose of your car pointed slightly higher than the back of the car? Is your fuel tank past 1/2?
Mine had injector seal issues.

Thanks for the replies. The intake flap is open. I’ve pulled the MAS, the car did not start.

Regarding cranking to regain fuel pressure, is there something magic about 5 seconds on 5 seconds off? I cranked tons while trying to start car but not that pattern and not all in one sitting. I must have drained my battery with the key in the ignition and am now charging to full again.

Not sure what this does but the car is pointing up hill with the tank 2/5 full.

Of the suggestions so far, I’ll check out out the tandem pump and glow plug seals. Are these related to the engine codes listed in original post or just a symptom of not starting?

if you continually crank this nasty buzzer will announce "oil " , point is you have to crank and rest. I piggy back another battery so the engine will rotate faster and get the pressure up quicker. If the pressure is down in the fuel rail your car will not start. Injectors run off the cam with no pressure they have trouble squirting.

Thingsfallapart said:

Not sure what this does but the car is pointing up hill with the tank 2/5 full.

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I read your note just before retiring yesterday and I had nightmares. Exactly the way my car behaved. leaky injector seals...........

There is a way of diagnosing this. Clear plastic tubing nailed it for vwztips

Thanks everyone. Car is running. 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off did it. About 15 cycles. I'm guessing I'll replace the injector seals and hope that's the problem. Maybe I'll wait and see if it happens again.

Just reviewed replacement procedures and costs on seals and tandem pump. I will definitely be waiting on either. I assumed the seals would be easy to replace based on how casually people talked about the crush washers. So, keep the tank full and park flat pointed down hill. Any other recommendations?

mine did it once a year ago. I would wait and see if it happens again if it does you know how to get it running, then start with seals.

whizznbyu said:

You might have issues with one of the following:
1) Tandem pump
2) Injector seals

Is the nose of your car pointed slightly higher than the back of the car? Is your fuel tank past 1/2?
Mine had injector seal issues.

Click to expand...

Hey Arthur,

Chris here.
Haven’t checked in for a while. How is that drivetrain running. Was that my car that had the injector seal issue.
Sorry for hijack.
Happy St Paddys day.
Hope you’re keeping well.

Thingsfallapart said:

Just reviewed replacement procedures and costs on seals and tandem pump. I will definitely be waiting on either. I assumed the seals would be easy to replace based on how casually people talked about the crush washers. So, keep the tank full and park flat pointed down hill. Any other recommendations?

Click to expand...

If you're in a pinch with cash the tandem pump im running is a 150 dollar ebay tandem. 2000 trouble free miles so far. Brand new oem Bosch in the trunk just incase this one craps out. Only time will tell if it remains reliable for another 98,000 miles. It came with the new mounting gasket. Not enough experience with these or follow ups to review them beyond just helping you to get from point a to point b until you can afford a 250 buck oem one. The biggest fear is an internal failure that can send diesel into the crank case. Some Oem units also did this, i know some oem LUKs had this issue but not sure about bosch or the other German named company i cannot recall at this time. I figured it was worth the 150 bucks to try it out. I wasn't sure i was going to keep my car when i installed it.

Update, one year later, no further issues. If it's not broke, don't fix it

Chrismak said:

Hey Arthur,
Chris here.
Haven’t checked in for a while. How is that drivetrain running. Was that my car that had the injector seal issue.
Sorry for hijack.
Happy St Paddys day.
Hope you’re keeping well.

Click to expand...

Chris. Car runs well. Changed out the turbo, replaced the clutch as it was slipping, camshaft seal is being replaced now.