2004 - Jetta Wagon - Automatic - Valve issue

Hi to all,

Was wondering what is expected to fix a valve problem (related to transmission apparently). I owned a standard transmission Jetta 2003 TDI before. Not sure of the cost for repairs with regards to this automatic model. Also, is automatic a reliable choice for that year ? I know that some MKIV has issues with automatic transmission.

Define "valve problem".

01M valve body replacement

CKent, if you think you have "valve body " problems, there is only one guy who I recommend, Kansas City TDI( Richards ) . He rebuilt my valve body on my 03 wagon ALH 3 yrs ago and never had a problem since . Got 35k since and the 01M runs great. Very happy with his work

The 2004 does not use the 01M. It uses the 09A (Made by Jatco). It is a far superior transmission.

However, I cannot decide if the OP actually HAS a problem or not.

The most common repair on them is a set of solenoids from cobra transmissions.

The seller says (word for word).. Car has a transmission problem (valve body).

Thx for the information "rustybolts". I live in Canada. Not sure it is within reach;

Also, "oilhammer" mentions differences in transmission design. Not familiar with the jargon : "The 2004 does not use the 01M. It uses the 09A (Made by Jatco)".. I am assuming the fix is different.

Anyone has an idea of price to fix this ?

CKent said:

The seller says (word for word).. Car has a transmission problem (valve body).

Click to expand...

So yes, you can replace the valve body. Front of the car comes loose, it is under a cover. It may not need that, it may need more than that. You've given us very little to go on.

The labor is 4.5hr.

The part is usually about a grand, plus some fluids.

These transmissions are also "filled for life". So you can start by making sure the fluid is at the correct level.


You will know if anyone has ever checked it, as you may have to break the factory seal to add fluid.


My son had one that wasn't working in reverse when cold. I think I got it working again, with just new fluid filled to the proper level. But we replaced the reverse solenoid, and it's been working fine since.


The car has 250k and was on the original tranny fluid... that was around a quart & half low...

There is no "factory seal" that need be touched to check or add fluid. You push it up through the check plug from the bottom. Same as most of the others.

mjydrafter said:

These transmissions are also "filled for life". So you can start by making sure the fluid is at the correct level.


You will know if anyone has ever checked it, as you may have to break the factory seal to add fluid.


My son had one that wasn't working in reverse when cold. I think I got it working again, with just new fluid filled to the proper level. But we replaced the reverse solenoid, and it's been working fine since.


The car has 250k and was on the original tranny fluid... that was around a quart & half low...

Click to expand...

Yeah I don't know why VW would ever say that knowing that they made these TDIs to run 500,000 miles, no tranny fluid would be any good at that point or a "lifetime". Unless they wanted us to comeback for new transmission and spend ridiculous money on one.

Well the term "lifetime" is open ended. Whose lifetime? What constitutes the life of a car? Most people who buy a new car will not have it "indefinitely", and even those that say they will often do not.

There isn't anything especially magical in any of the manufacturers' transmission fluids that would allow any of them to run forever. This Jatco is no exception. It uses the same ATF most all the rest of the Jatcos use (Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, Ford, etc.). Volkswagens are no different in that regard.

And I really think people read too much into the all too common used phrase "sealed for life" or some variation thereof. All transmissions are "sealed" the same way. If they were not, they'd all leak their fluid out right away. The lack of a dipstick (which most automatics follow this rule now) should in no way make anyone think anything is different on the fluid itself, or the transmission for that matter.

Much easier for a home mechanic to open the breather or cap seal on the top of the pan than pushing any fluid anywhere.


Once you open it, it snaps back easily and makes filling from the top a cinch with a funnel and hose.


I still maintain that without a dip stick or check plug, most aren't going to check that fluid. And I still believe no one checked this one.


Add in the temperature requirements and I think a lot of regular folks are going to glaze over and mutter "lifetime fluid...*"

*Which ends up being the 1st owners ownership lifetime in most cases.

We aren't "most", here. Thank goodness.

I sincerely appreciate the comments and opinions. A fluid check / replacement would be a great (and unexpected) surprise if that solution works without valve replacement.

Not much more I can do from here; I will need a VW diesel specialist to take a look and tell me.

Thx again to all !

Sooooo what's the actual problem you are experiencing?

JDSwan87 said:

Sooooo what's the actual problem you are experiencing?

Click to expand...

That is what I wanted to know in post #2.

And FWIW, the Jatco transmission isn't Volkswagen diesel specific, or even Volkswagen specific, although some of the native OBD communication tools and protocols are.

need to go to a VW specialist to diagnose it. I don't owe the car. I am trying to buy it.

CKent said:

need to go to a VW specialist to diagnose it. I don't owe the car. I am trying to buy it.

Click to expand...

Diagnose WHAT??? That is what we are trying to ask you.

Is the MIL on? Y/N

The car starts? Y/N

The engine runs? Y/N

Is the segment gear indicator lit up solid? Y/N

When the gear selector is placed in D, just the car move forward? Y/N

If Y, does it start in 1st gear, and sequentially move up through all five forward gears? Y/N

When placed in R, does it go backwards? Y/N

These are not "specialist" questions, these are simple questions anyone who drives a car can answer. My wife could answer these. My little sisters could answer these. My niece who just got her driver's license could answer these, or at least give a reasonable approximation of an answer... or at the very least, tell me something is "not right".

That's all I could get...

Engine light is on. code transmission monitoring. The rest is fine. When get 90 degrees temp, makes small jerk from second to third. Cold no shifting from second. Back normal

CKent said:

That's all I could get...

Engine light is on. code transmission monitoring. The rest is fine. When get 90 degrees temp, makes small jerk from second to third. Cold no shifting from second. Back normal

Click to expand...

So when the engine is stone cold, the transmission will not shift out of 2nd. However, when the engine is up to 90*C, the transmission shifts fine. Is that what I'm reading?

yes. That's my understanding

CKent said:

yes. That's my understanding

Click to expand...

The 09a transmission is known for that problem. It's likely in need of either new solenoids or a new valve body. From what I've seen on this forum, new solenoids cures the cold shifting issues for most people, including myself.

JDSwan87 said:

The 09a transmission is known for that problem. It's likely in need of either new solenoids or a new valve body. From what I've seen on this forum, new solenoids cures the cold shifting issues for most people, including myself.

Click to expand...

And what would be the expected price to fix solenoids ?

CKent said:

And what would be the expected price to fix solenoids ?

Click to expand...

Solenoids can be bought from Cobra Transmission for about $280 shipped, then it's about a 4-5 hour job taking your sweet time...